Breville BES900XL Semi Automatic Espresso Machine Review

Well, quite a bit judging from the latest espresso effort from Breville. Since I love espresso, this is going to be a lengthy review. My apologies.

If you would rather not read all my ramblings, the bottom line is this is a great consumer-level machine with some "prosumer" features. It is very user friendly and has an abundance of well thought-out convenience touches. My concerns are that it has to be professionally serviced every 4-5 years and that it lacks a proven track record regarding reliability. I think it's a good match for someone who wants a feature-rich machine that offers ease-of-use automation, but also the ability to take a hands-on approach should one desire. The brand name won't impress the "serious" espresso crowd, but it hits the mark where it counts - tasty espresso.

Full review:
Breville is one of my favorite small appliance companies since they spend a lot of time on the little things that make a difference when using their products. However, when it comes to espresso, I've not been satisfied with their products (I've tried their die-cast espresso machine and the Modena). Decent looks, decent price, but mediocre performance.

Their so-so past espresso efforts, plus the fact that they are a general kitchen appliance maker, never earned Breville much love among the "serious" espresso crowd. Their view is: want a juicer or toaster oven? Go for a Breville. Want an espresso machine? Go for one made in Italy.

Breville has made a big effort to change that perception with this machine. It is packed with features seen on prosumer-level machines: a PID (which allows precise temperature control), a heated group head, the ability to tweak a wide range of settings, and even a timer for start-up and shut-down. For me it's the best of both worlds - I can play with the settings when I feel so inclined, or just push a button when I want an espresso RIGHT NOW.

A big change from past models is the dual boiler setup. This means there is one boiler dedicated to brewing, and another dedicated for steaming milk. The benefits include the ability to steam and brew at the same time, faster recovery time, and more consistent temperature. According to Breville, the water comes into the steam boiler first, then goes to the brew boiler so you don't get a big influx of cold water that drops the temperature.

Other nice features include an automated cleaning cycle (more on that later) and a hot water dispenser. Little helpful touches abound, such as a cubby behind the drip tray to hold cleaning supplies and a wheel that pops up to help move the machine when you need to get to the back of the unit. It's indicative of the thought that Breville puts into their designs - clearly the people who design these products actually use them as well.

The overall design is similar to many of their other appliances. It looks like a Breville, with lit buttons and nicely shaped stainless throughout. Plastic, when used, looks and feels high quality. Very sleek looking, but to my eye it lacks the beauty of the high-end Italian machines. I'd say it's "handsome" rather than "gorgeous."

I paired this initially with a Breville Smart Grinder, but was not pleased with the results. I couldn't get the grind fine enough (I'm using the non-pressurized basket). It's important to note that I have NOT modified my grinder with the shims. If you get the shim kit (free from Breville) their Smart Grinder should be an OK choice. I had much better results with a Baratza Vario grinder. Remember, a great espresso starts with the grinder - don't bother spending good money on a machine unless you also budget for a good grinder.

After only a few failed experiments I was turning out very nice shots. Granted, you can get great shots from a much less expensive machine, but the Breville saves you from having to temperature surf or worry about other such variables. All you have to do is concentrate on the grind, dose and tamp.

My only quibble regarding shots was that occasionally the puck stuck to the shower screen. It's easy to dislodge (gently nudge it with your finger and it pops off) but was irritating. Nice dry puck.

The tamper included with the machine is OK. It has a standard 58mm portafilter so a third-party tamper is easy to get (my Rattleware 58mm worked great).

Steaming prowess seems quite good. I can't give you a detailed description of how a latte tastes since the idea of adding milk to espresso makes me cringe. But I had no problems foaming milk, and the results were judged excellent by friends who are willing to drink what I term milk-tainted espresso. The fact that I had no problems foaming milk speaks highly of how easy this machine is to use, since I lack much time using a steam wand. The steam control knob is graduated so you can easily change the steam volume; there is a nice plastic grip on the wand to prevent burned fingers; the wand has a ball joint for flexibility; and the steam itself is very dry. It does not have a double-insulated wand, so you have to make sure you clean it well after use or the milk bakes on (found that out the hard way).

The tanks are stainless steel. Any respectable espresso geek would sneer at that since copper or brass are preferred for holding uniform temperatures. But with the PID control and an heated group head, temperature fluctuations are nil. I don't see the tank material to be an issue at all.

The machine comes with 4 baskets (single and double in both pressurized and non-pressurized) plus a whole host of goodies including a frothing jug (and a rather nice one at that) and the cleaning supplies. The manual is clear, easy to understand, and a provides a great deal of helpful information to step you through the program options.

Now the bad parts. Let's start with cleaning. On the plus side, it offers an automated backflush system that is easy as pie to use - basically just push a button. It comes with a rubber insert to create a blind portafilter and 2 cleaning tablets. It will prompt you to run a cleaning cycle after roughly 200 shots, but you can also run it on-demand.

They also include enough water filters for one year (2 month replacement cycle). Filters cost $30 for a 6-pack at the Breville site (could not find them yet on Amazon). The other regular replacement item would be the group head gasket, as in all espresso machines. It is not yet available on the Breville site.

What concerns me is that you cannot - repeat CANNOT - descale this machine yourself. They state it has to be professionally descaled. The following quote is from the support section on the Breville website:

"To ensure a long life of optimal brewing and steaming performance, it is important the machine is serviced by an authorized Breville service agent when the `SERVICE' prompt scrolls across the LCD screen. The `SERVICE' prompt will appear after 6,000 cycles - approximately 4-5 years of regular use in a domestic environment. The frequency of this prompt will depend on your frequency of use."

I emailed Breville to find out the cost of the service and was told it would run $60 to $100. There are only a few service centers, however, and none anywhere near me. So that means boxing it up and shipping, which will add to the cost and trouble.

I don't care for that at all. I don't have confidence that the filters will reduce the scale to the point where it doesn't need to be removed for 3-4 years. Scale is an unavoidable issue in any machine that heats water. Having to pack up the machine and send it in for a "professional" descaling is going to be really irksome not only in terms of cost, but also in terms of potential shipping damage.

That's a big issue that you need to be willing to deal with should you buy this. I'd suggest checking with Breville to see if there is a service center near you before purchasing.

The other issue that nags at me is reliability. There's a lot of electronics in this puppy, and electronics have a way of needing expensive repairs. Plus, the guts of the machine (from pictures I've seen of tear-downs) is loaded with plastic rather than metal. The warranty is only 1 year. I would be more comfortable with at least a 3 year warranty given the price point of the unit. A 3+ year warranty tells me the manufacturer is confident that the unit will last. One year makes me a bit apprehensive.

Both those concerns tempted me to drop the rating, but I'm going to stick with 5 stars since it works well (right now at least), yields great shots, is easy to use, and was thoughtfully designed. Add those up and you get 5 stars in my book. I'll revise the rating down the road should problems occur.

I would rank this as one of the top choices in the $1000 to $1500 segment of the market. (I'd suggest the Gaggia Classic for the sub-$500 segment, the Crossland CC-1 or the Silvia for the $500 to $1000 segment; and the Rocket Giotto or the Quick Mill Andreja the $1,500+ segment). You get a lot of machine for your money and, if paired with a little practice and a good grinder, you can pull some very, very nice shots. Just don't put milk in them, OK?

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